by Carla Caruso
Adelaide’s Zoe Aitken is many things: a vintage clothing seller, a keen cyclist, a mother-of-four, a vegetarian, a disability advocate, and an environmentalist.
Previously, she ran preloved fashion stores in the city and Prospect but now sells via an online shopfront, House of Aitken.
In another of our regular features on avid park-goers, we spoke to Zoe about her love of all things vintage and your Park Lands.
Hi, Zoe. Please tell us how you got into selling vintage fashion.
I have been collecting vintage clothing since the ‘70s. I just love old things!
[I was] an obsessive child with an extensive dress-up box. I loved watching midday matinees of old black-and-white movies on TV, had a knack for sewing from an early age, went to flea markets with my parents around Adelaide, and made costumes for drama classes and figure skating.
Using/loving/repairing old treasures to give them another decade or two of life seems normal to me.
My parents did not believe in over-consumerism, although they had the means to [indulge]. That was the best example for me growing up. Once they bought something, they took care of it.
I grew up in a minimalist 1960s house, which many retro collectors would covet these days. My father was a curator of mammals at the South Australian Museum.
He taught me about the Australian bush, gave me a strong passion for history, and passed on the idea that many objects need to be found, saved, restored, stored in climate-controlled conditions, and enjoyed for generations.
Seventies maxi dresses, collected by Zoe Aitken.
My mother is an artist and teacher. Her love and knowledge of all things 1940s, all things British, and, most importantly, all things fashion had a huge effect on me. She still is the most glamourous woman I have ever known – every day, from head-to-toe.
I was in my early 20s [when I had the idea for a vintage business]. A new parent, a new consumer, I was starting to think hard about the world and how it was operating around me. The idea of constantly making new products was starting to feel wrong to me.
The amount of waste from our constant shopping for clothes and household items was making me feels sick. The waste that poured into our waterways from almost every factory and manufacturing hub in the world – the animal habitat that such human habits destroy … I wanted something better for my babies and I, and wondered how I could make even a tiny impact.
I opened Tea House Gallery in 2003 – my first real business – on Synagogue Place in the city. A huge sun-lit space [that was] a gallery, Fringe venue, and performance space, with books and a few pieces of antique and vintage clothing and accessories in one corner.
“First casualty of the season #monarchbutterfly,” Zoe wrote on Instagram in May.
Later, when the building was knocked down to make way for apartments, and the demographics of Adelaide changed forever, I moved my business to the eastern suburbs, deciding to focus on clothing – and SALA art on the walls.
After 20 years, my last shop on Prospect Road was closed by the start of the plague of 2020. [Now you can find Zoe’s wares at her online Etsy store or via her Instagram page.]
These days, I mostly source from original owners – I do house calls and buy everything – private vintage sellers, and estate sales, because I love hearing the story behind every object and every dress.
The history is so important.
“No matter what some newbies might tell you, second-hand items must be 30 years or more to be called ‘vintage’,” Zoe says. “Anything more recent is called second-hand, preloved, designer recycle, or thrifted.”
We know you’re also a regular park-goer. Any favourite memories from time spent in your Adelaide Park Lands?
My childhood memories are all about Botanic Park [Park 11]. Our family and friends always had outdoor parties there.
WOMAD helped us fall in love again with that Park. The trees and bats are perfect and well-loved. If I’m walking through to Norwood, I love walking past all the cockatoos in the ‘party’ trees.
I have walked so many times through most of our city parks. They are such a big part of my life and that of my family.
I cycle and walk, instead of driving, since it’s so easy in little, old Adelaide, and many of my commutes involve a ride through our city Park Lands.
I grew up in Prospect, so the northern Park Lands are important for my memories, and I ride through them often, if going that way.
The River Torrens brings up childhood memories of rowing for Zoe. Photo: Keith Conlon.
I went to school in Unley, so am familiar with the southern Park Lands too. Not only is it the best spot to watch the [Christmas] pageant, it’s so tranquil and so green. Riding through is always the best part of the day.
I rowed all through high school, so the Torrens river and its banks and wildlife is like a backyard to many Adelaide kids and means everything to us and our own kids now.
Having a city surrounded by green parks is what makes life most liveable here and sets us apart from many other cities we have tried but left feeling homesick.
I go on lunch dates in the [Himeji] Japanese garden [Park 18], and the park surrounding that is so quiet and also good for a picnic, party, solitude, or an afternoon nap.
Zoe Aitken, decked out, as always, in vintage fashion.
You’ve spoken about having autism and ADHD on your Instagram page. Why is it important to you to be open about this?
I have always known I have autism, also OCD, PTSD, and recently specialists have agreed, I also have ADHD.
I don’t mention it much, I just don’t hide it anymore. I think I am probably a good example of someone who has achieved a lot for someone with a hidden disability.
But I have struggled a lot and have been treated quite badly because of it throughout my life.
I don’t try to advocate for all people on the spectrum. I just turn up, unashamed, and let that be enough. And apparently it is.
Zoe loves cycling to the Adelaide Park Lands and beyond.
What era of fashion do you most love?
My favourite era is the 1930s/40s, closely followed by the glamorous ‘70s, and, of course, the ‘80s because that was high school for me – and according to my kids, I am stuck there.
Wearing second-hand when I was young was a form of rebellion. And it still is. The best way to vote for a world you want is to vote with your dollar. Do not give your money to billionaires; they have enough.
Buying and wearing second-hand or vintage clothing means something unique for you. You won’t see 10 other women wearing it, and it probably only cost you $10, with the tags on.
I encourage everyone to buy as much as possible second-hand. So much is available in charity shops that is hardly used, unworn, with tags still attached.
I wear second-hand clothing every day, no matter what the occasion. Every time I shop second-hand, I know I am saving something from going to landfill.
Someone made that piece of clothing; it took hours. Someone made the fabric; someone designed the pattern. If it’s a nice piece, isn’t that the same as art?
Relaxing in the Park Lands is a perk for Zoe.
In what other ways do you like to spend your time?
When I’m not playing with fabrics and clothes in my studio, you will find me dressed up in the garden, in the kitchen, on my pushbike, at my drawing table [illustrating], or enjoying volunteer work with several native wildlife groups in and around Adelaide, including Landcare.
